Paris Go-ing

Review by Sue (2), left on 09-07-2007 at 15:24

Food:    Wine:    Coffee:    Staff:    Style:    Value:   

Overall:

We are off to Paris in October, so when I won a ‘Meet Me There’ review competition dinner voucher for a restaurant of my choice, I thought an aperitif was timely.
I’ve generally avoided French cuisine because the too rich sauces and excessive use of cream have put me off. But with our trip imminent I thought it was time to give it another chance. I chose Paris Go because I heard that its award as Melbourne’s Best French Bistro of 2003 was well-deserved.
On a freezing, blustery Saturday night it was gorgeous to step into Paris Go’s warmth and comfort. The all male waiters were as French as I could have wished – all heavily-accented Gallic charm and sauciness. It proved irresistible to practise our French, and they were suitably unimpressed.
The colour scheme was muted, the decorations minimalist, and there was no music; the modest setting perhaps designed to highlight the jewel that was the food. Presentation of my dorade aux antichaux (perch stuffed with artichokes) was exquisite, so that once I covered its head with a serviette, I enjoyed it immensely. My husband’s poulet Provencale, on the other hand, was edible but unremarkable.
The piece de resistance was undoubtedly the desserts. My choice of classic crepe suzette was rewarded with the lightest, citrus-flavoured offering, though I was disappointed that it came without flambee. My husband was delighted with his choice of oeufs a la neige – two luscious mounds of soft meringue.
Although the restaurant was packed, it wasn’t particularly noisy – perhaps the thick red carpet absorbed sounds or maybe the clientele, who were as well-dressed and prosperous-looking as any Parisian were too well-mannered to raise their voices.
The meals were no doubt cheap by Parisian standards at $60 a head - mid-range for Melbourne - and the good selection of wines were similarly priced. There was no rush and we could have sat and chatted all night long.
Paris Go? Certainement.